We have a love-hate relationship with Les Deux-Alpes. We quite like the buzz of the town - arriving here is a bit like driving into Las Vegas from the Nevada desert - and we understand the appeal of its vibrant nightlife. We love the high-Alpine feel of its main mountain, and the good snow to be found on the north facing runs in the middle of the mountain, above the icy home slopes and below the giant nursery slope that is the glacier. But we're very unimpressed by the extent of those slopes, and we hate the slope congestion that results when most of the town's 35,000 visitors are crammed on to them. Crowding apart, keen intermediates spoilt by high-mileage French mega-resorts (and not up to the excellent off-slope) will simply find the usable area of slopes rather small.

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